Peep the rundown on street style, party people, cool dudes, parties, and just about everything during LG/Toronto Fashion Week.

I can’t believe we’re already on day four of LGFW as  quickly as it comes is as quickly as it goes. I was hoping to get to the tents early today but the unfashionable Gods we against me, I happened to make it on time for Caroline Néron and VAWK by Sunny Fong.

Caroline Néron

Can we say bling, bling… who knew mother nature had so much shine as Caroline Néron highlighted the bounties our world by presenting a collection inspired by Air, Water and Earth. The purity and transparency of Air and Water were seen in the tear dropped Swarovski crystals, grey pearls and bluish green crystals that gave you the feeling you were floating. The Earth pieces were organic, displayed by mixing elements like wood and leather and embellishing it with tiger’s eye and other crystals. Truly beautiful pieces showcasing the elements of our world.

VAWK by Sunny Fong

Sunny Fong took one of the biggest nemesis of the Spring/Summer season INSECTS and made it the cornerstone for S/S ’12. VAWK’s collection perfectly entitled “Insectica” highlighted the silhouette of insects from the shapes of the wings and thorax to the details seen in their outer appearance evident in Fong’s gold leather inserts  and printed fabric. With references to moths, butterflies, beetles and asymmetrical cuts coupled with wings and precise cutouts… Sunny found the perfect cues from what many perceive to be a pest.  (I must say I loved the extreme flutters on the lashes and stunning jewelry by Young & Ng and Erin Tracy Designs)

XOXO… Pinkie

Can you imagine its that time again for all the bloggers, style mavens, fashion rebels and staples to come together again for the one and only Toronto Fashion Week!! Its true and this year they are celebrating the 25^th anniversary season of LG Fashion Week beauty by L’Oreal Paris and what better way to celebrate an anniversary than a venue change to David Pecaut Square (with the venue change comes the tents all us die-hard fashion lovers crave)!!

Holt Renfrew’s Opening Night is Canada Cool

Its become a ritual to kick-off the week with our fave luxury retailers Holt Renfrew and their ode to the wonderful designers that call the Great White North home. As always we can thank Holts for bringing a crowd out and this night was no different… it was soooo packed which of course made the show started hella late, but made me right on time for our Canada Cool talent featuring Jeremy Laing, Smythe, Naked & Famous, Denis Gagnon, Twentcluny, Lida Baday, Dennis Merotto and Wings + Horns.

What can I say all of my homegrown faves showcasing their amazing talent… and showing us how to stay Canada Cool for Spring/Summer with colour, movement, print!! As always Holt Renfrew shows us why “There is no place like Holts”!

JUMA

After being Canada Cool we all head over to the insanely bright-white Studio space to take in JUMA… I must say I loved the way the room was styled with the mannequins framing the runway (the perfect touch). All I can say is S/S ’12 is about print, colour, print, colour… and I’m quite fine with that.

Collection was filled with movement from the cut of the digitally printed silk and jersey perfect for draping, layering, which makes it absolutely ease for anyone to wear.

Guess what I spotted on models fantastic eyewear from my favourite place Gafas Optical Shop, BTW did anyone else catch the awesome handbags?!?

FYI JUMA you better thank mamma for all her help!!

The Return of King Arthur Mendonça

We all love Arthur Mendonça  so we heard he was making made a triumphant return to LG Fashion Week with his show inspired by Cleopatra… we all were jumping in our 6 inch stilettos. I was excited to see such wonderful colour in the blues and yellows, beautiful floral blooms in purple and red.

Not to mention the ultra sexy and ever so lovely sheer gowns that swung with every strut, and I love how he just threw a little animal-esque print in there for us (thank you).

All I can say is Welcome back, Arthur and its about time

Oooo Lala Berlin

Germany based Lala Berlin wrapped opening night with her very first presentation at LGFW, which featured a colour palette of ultra crisp whites to darker muted prints with a splash of colour.

I must say I enjoyed the collection, I appreciated her airiness coupled with the futuristic details and angles… the right balance of softness and edgy.

Before I forget did anyone see those killer boots with the clear PVC insert (I’ll take a pair in both white and yellow)!!

The look that stuck in my mind is the floor length shirt dress (a little sterile at first glance)but with the right accessories and shoes… it becomes the perfect Spring and Summer piece.

Congrats are in order for Lala Berlin great presentation as a newcomer to LGFW, look forward to seeming more!!

PS my apologies for the phone pics, my memory card in the camera fried that night, but thanks to my home slices at FrontRow Mag for hooking me up!!

XOXO… Pinkie

They were rappers, they were DJs, they were remixers, and now they have a full album to keep you footloose and fancy free, Holy Ghost! have risen from making drainpipe- sporting hipsters dance in New York to all over the continent and then some Check the myspace for the duos mad remixes of Phoenix, MGMT, Friendly Fires, and their own boomdiggy shit. In the mean  time Holy Ghost!’s (and they damn well earned that exclamation point) Nicholas Millhiser and Alexander Frankel took some time off to answer PinkMafia’s 20 Q.

1. What is your
dream of happiness?
Alex: Big studio, in corsica
Nick: Yeah, DFA Corsica HQ on the rocks

2. Blonde or Brunette?
Alex: Brunette
Nick: Brunette for sure

3. What is the quality you like most in a man?
Alex: Not being a dick
Nick: Being worse looking and less charming than me

4. What do you fear most?
Alex: Fear itself
Nick: Embarassing my friends

5. 808s or 909s?
Alex: 707′s, also like the latin percussion model, 727!
Nick: Simmons!

6. What’s your biggest regret?
Alex: There are a lot
Nick: Yeah, there are a couple but they are not exactly for a light hearted interview. It would just bum you out.

7. What’s your fav bar or club in the world?
Alex: Subclub! Glasgow!
Nick: Ditto

8. What’s the one thing you can’t live without?
Alex: Coffee.
Nick: Beer

9. What are the 3 musicians dead or alive you’d like to see perform?
Alex: Talking Heads at their Rome concerts, Larry Levan any night, MJ.
Nick: Double ditto

10. What is your favorite decade in music?
Alex: 1977-84
Nick: Alex is killing it with his answers. Triple ditto!

11. If you had to choose, would you rather go blind or deaf and why?
Blind, I could still work.
Nick: I’ll say deaf so alex and I could engage in mad-cap antics ala Gene Wilder and Richard Pryor in “See No Evil/Hear No Evil.”

12. How old is too old?
Alex: Its never too late
Nick: I’m feeling it now. The kids…are coming up…from behind…

13. Where do you see yourself in 15 years?
Alex: Not far from where I am
Nick: Literally. I’d be happy in this very apartment, though hopefully (1) I will own it (2) I will have renovated the kitchen and (3) not be painfully alone.

14. Who’s your hero?

Alex: Make that super hero: Jerry Fuchs.

Nick: From the first time I saw saw him I thought he was the best drummer I’d ever seen but ever since he passed away I’ve spent a lot of time studying his playing and he was actually even better than I thought. I really, really miss him.

15. What’s your favourite colour?
Alex: Red
Nick: Dude! We’re so in touch with each other! Mine is totally red too!

16. What song could you live without ever hearing again?
Alex: your so gay by Katy Perry.
Nick: That fucking reggaeton song the bodega below my apartment has been blasting for the past 4 years.

17. Metallica or Madonna?
Nick: Madonna
Nick: Metallica

18. What’s your most hated vice?
Alex: Cigarettes and taxis
Nick: Good Humor Oreo ice cream bars. I love cigarettes, that’s the problem.

19. Who is the most tragic figure in history?
Alex/Nick: We’re all tragic

20. What are the top three live shows you’ve seen in your life?
Alex: I leave this to Nick
Nick: Jay-Z’s Fade To Black concert at the The Garden. That’s it.

Holy Ghost! Are playing in Toronto at the  Koolhaus May 25th with LCD Soundsystem CLICK HERE FOR TICKETS

The Betsey Johnson show at Liberty Grand was the talk of the town as the finale for Toronto Fashion Week. Montreal’s Blondish on the ones and twos and famous supermodel Aggy D, plus a show and glamour of course. Take a look at the lovely photos from guest photog, Matt Vardy.

Welcome back fashion lovers, it’s time for another instalment of Fashion Tips With Jon and Jenny, right in time for Toronto Fashion Week. Not sure what to wear to that show next week? worried that you will be photographed in something atrocious at that after party? Never fear, we’re here to help.

Try not to wear any current high street store stock from places like Zara or H&M, not only will people recognize it, you could easily be caught in the same outfit as someone else.  if you are going to wear a piece from a mass retailer, wear something that is from a past season but still relevant. people won’t necessarily be able to put their finger on where they know it from, and your chances of showing up in the same floral dress as someone else will be slim to none.

Another trend we’ve noticed at pre-fashion week events is the serious abundance of boys dressed like girls.  I mean, we were only half joking when we said that tran trans are the next Dr. Martens, but after scoping some new tranny man meat at the Greta Constantine show we’re not so sure.  Not any all-american boy can pull this look off–you’ve got to have some serious confidence and the ability to walk in a stacked heel. Look out Cary Tauben and Fritz Helder, there are some new kids out to knock off your style.

After checking out all of the cotton candy hued hair this season, we think blondes really must have more fun!  We’ve spotted blondes toning their hair in colors ranging from light pink to fluorescent yellow, and any color in between a la Proenza SS 2010.  If your platinum blonde hair just isn’t making you feel like you stand out as much as it used to, revert back to your 90′s tween self and invest in some different colors of Manic Panic–you can change your color every week.  Use it for an all over tone, or change it up with a dip dye look.

We get it if you are going all “anti fur” in a Stella McCartney or Pam Anderson way, but listen, don’t’ claim your fake fur as real please.  There is no shame in wearing fakeif you are going to own up to it and create some sort of back story for your purchase, but don’t lie to us, we know that Le Chateau spun poly urethane vest is NOT rabbit.

Hey girls, FYI no one wants to see that pale winter belly during fashion week.  We are just coming out of winter in Toronto, so no judgment if that summer body isn’t there yet but if that’s the case, please, no crop tops.  Not only will people be silently judging  you, but there are swarms of models everywhere, and God forbid you get caught in the same frame as one of them while showing that not so hot muffin top.  Give yourself a break and at least wear something high waisted if you are just dying to wear that short shirt.

We understand wanting a head of messy curls, but lets make this a tip for all seasons: no freshly pressed hair.  The main goal here is to look effortlessly chic, not like you are dressed up for prom night.  When your hair moves as a single entity and you can’t run your fingers through it, you know you’ve gone too far.

Unless you’re Rihanna, no sunglasses at night.  That’s it.

It’s totally worth a shot to crash a show that you are dying to see, you really only have your dignity to lose so why not? If you’ve missed the RSVP or even if you weren’t invited, you might as well try.  Act like you belong, and get as much info on what the RSVP situation was like, so that you can answer unforeseen questions from the door girl.  If you show up at the door and a person with a list in hand awaits, try and do a quick scan of the names on the list, they will never remember who they gave John Doe’s spot to if he happens to show up.

Try to keep it business drunk.  We all know that the open bar is a nice touch to any fashion week show or party, but try not to get too crazy. It’s not a Vice party, act like you’re there for more than just the free booze.  Just remember that double fisting is not cute, at least consolidate your wine into one glass or ask for a heavy pour so that people can’t call you out on being a lush.

We’ve been seeing a lot of distressed fabric lately, and we’re not just talking denim.  While a distressed jean is totally in fashion right now (especially a lighter wash), we’ve had our eye on all of the hot young locals wearing those Thomas dresses.  This design duo has had some buzz in Toronto for the past couple of seasons, but it is great to see some more styles from them other than that coveted razored black shirt from last spring.

If you are lucky enough own a piece from the show you are seeing (and really, the season is irrelevant) make sure to show your love and wear it, even if it is an accessory or a layering piece. if not, try and invest in some of the local talent during fashion week, supporting Canadian fashion is always in style.

That’s all for now, we’ll be back for next season to save you from any future faux pas!

I’ve been dreading writing this roundup all week. Struggling to say something new, something positive. Trying to find a way to tow the line and appear like it’s original thought.

I look forward to covering Fashion Week each season because I have nothing to lose. In music (where my rent money comes from), no one cares about how you look. So Fashion is fun. It’s a whole new world filled with beauty and politics that I get the pleasure of dipping into but never having to play by.

Last season, I saw some growth, steps towards becoming a big boy Fashion Week. By the time this season rolled around, I was over it as they say. Might be shooting this blog in the foot here, but c’mon LG Fashion Week, you’re nothing but a Trade Show disguised as a Sorority of a few talented groups who mutually masturbate with each other each year.

Here’s a shakedown of what was good and what was bad. Basically the same old same old.

MONDAY–HOLT’S Party

It’s my fav part of Fashion Week each season, and this was no different. Other than a mannequin in a “boyfriend” tux jacket and capri jogging pants that caused me to let out a little scream, it was pretty same (that means good).

Robin Kay made a speech and literally no one listened which was really annoying. The theme was ‘Wear Love’ which is the same bull they were feeding us last season. They announced a group of 7 which is up from 5 last season, but includes all the same people, Pink Tartan, Denis Gagnon, Jeremy Lang, Greta Constantine, Michael Kale, and honestly, I couldn’t hear a damn thing. This was just facial recognition on my part.

TUESDAY–TRAVIS TADDEO

There’s only two designers who showed this week that I was interested in. It’s hard to get interested in Sears and 2 Barbie shows. Plus, I heard the FDCC didn’t pay their bills and that’s the REAL reason they were moved to the Chrysler building not because they needed more room like they claim.

What was good?

It’s the tees that win. Even if the boys’ stuff is only suitable for gay clubbers, a Travis Taddeo tank fits like the memory of your first summer romance. And he’s always got a dress. A dress I lust after like the natural blonde hair of my youth. This season it was a white cotton mini dress with perforated white leather shoulder plates and trim. Also the finale was a real finale, not some awkward after thought where the designer tries to look like they slaved for decades all alone to finally pull off a show at the last second.

What was bad?

There was an entire section reserved for sponsors that was empty and Taddeo’s area over rammed with A-list Torontonians. Annoy.

What was same?

The show kinda was. I love his stuff so i don’t want to be mean, but it was very similar to last season. I don’t know if that means he’s establishing a style or what, guess i’ll have to wait till the next one to compare.

i gave Taddeo the same questions we posed to our group of fashion insiders at the beginning of the week. Here’s what he had to say:

Me: What are you most excited for at LG Fashion Week this season?

Him: My runway show.

Me: What’s your most memorable moment from seasons past?

Him: Back stage with Cary Tauben, my team and the models.

Me: Do you think the designers who show are a good representation of Canadian fashion, why?

Him: Yes I do. This is where Canadian fashion is at.

Me: What do you think needs to happen to take LG Fashion Week to the next level internationally?

Him: Start a month earlier perhaps.

Me: Who do you think the next big Canadian talent is and why?

Him: There’s a whole new influx of great Canadian designers that are up and coming they all  have talent. Its important to note them all and not single one out. By singling them out Canadian fashion will never grow as a whole. We are all unique in our designs and markets. We all have big talent.

WEDNESDAY–PINK TARTAN

Pinkie stepped in for this one and reviewed it:

Hey y’all its day three of  LG Toronto Fashion Week and let me tell you its mass hysteria down here at King St. HQ. Every fashionista, socialite, athlete, and who who’s of the T.O is out to check the Spring/Summer ’10 Collections of Pink Tartan and Joe Fresh. In a true ode to fashion I arrive fashionably late and my jaw literally hits the floor as I see the sea of people, but never fear Pink Mafia is here. With that said I push my way to the front with Gucci tote in hand and 6 inch BCBG’s to step on any toes gettin in my way.  With place card in hand, I manuever through designer bag alley to the front where everyone and their mom was tryna get in, but tough luck without a place card. I finally get in tryna look perfect from all angles, cause we know the paparazzi is everywhere. In the midst of my cool dude act I literally bumped into Tie Domi who very graciously tells me no worries, just to realize I’m standing right in front of  Ben Mulroney who’s hair is truly meticulous and Ms. Jeanne Beker who is always flawless and super nice! As I begin to walk past I hear Ben say nice shoes (yeah I know I can’t believe it myself, I damn near passed out). I hustled my lil tush through the sea of style mavens to my fifth row seat finally getting settled in only to wait for another 20 for the show to start, but hey thats fashion week. The lights dim, music starts and before you know it the show was underway.

The collection started and you could tell it was definite spring/summer collection with the very monochromatic colour palette with a host of  muted in tones of gray, brown, creams and we all know a lil sparkle never hurt a fashionista. The “look” that totally had me was the socks and shoes look, LOVED IT from ankle boots to pumps it was all good. I can say Pink Tartan did no wrong when it came to the silhouette from the wide shoulders and long lines evident in the white wide leg trouser it was well done. I can’t tell a lie, I was impresssed with the lovely hats perched on the models like bird’s nest. Hands down my three fave looks for the show were the sequined cape dress, the black and white sequined stripped skirt and the classic white wide leg trouser. I must say I wasn’t totally blown away but there was good few pieces that I would scoop!

To be quite honest peeps this was my fave day so far… why you may ask!!! Let’s see, from getting complimented by Ben Mulroney on my pumps, smooches with Jeanne Beker and a bump from Tie Domy, what more could I ask for. Ooooh yeah bumping into Stacey McKenzie with my boys from Freshly Educated Men.

Pinkie got a lot of pics like this one of the Pink Tartan show. They didn’t have her name at the door, mis-seated her AND we couldn’t get photos out of the publicity company for the piece. Fashion Week fail.

On the plus, I asked Kim Newport-Mimran, designer and absolute treat from Pink Tartan, the Fashion Week questions and she gave me her two cents:

Me: What are you most excited for at LG Fashion Week this season?

Her: I am excited to present the Spring 2010 Collection.  It is exciting to have my vision walk down the runway.

Me: What’s your most memorable moment from seasons past?

Her: There are lots of great memories.  It’s wonderful to watch Fashion Week evolve as I evolve as a designer.

Me: Do you think the designers who show are a good representation of Canadian fashion, why?

Her: The designers keep getting better every season as LG Fashion Week grows and evolves.

Me: What do you think needs to happen to take LG Fashion Week to the next level internationally?

Her: To keep growing LG Fashion Week and to show more diverse Canadian talent.

Me: Who do you think the next big Canadian talent is and why?

Her: Pink Tartan! We will continue to grow, here in Canada and internationally.

WEDNESDAY–JOE FRESH

On the plus, Pinkie was upgraded to a real seat for the Joe Fresh show and waas kind enough to give us a review:

Up next was the Joe Fresh show and man if I thought Pink Tartan was rammed Joe Fresh was ten times worst. So when many of you hear Joe Fresh you don’t think runaway show at Fashion week, but boy are u wrong. Naturally, the show started 20 mins late anything else would be unheard of. As the lights go low, the music seeps the air models hit the runway it took me a momento to feel the collection but when I did I did. The collection and its pieces where just Fresh, very clean and crisp, perfect basics for the spring summer look. And is it just me or did anyone else notice a nod to the mod 60′s in this collection. All I gotta say is that orange shirt with those white shorts has my name all over it. Put it this way Joe Fresh may not be high fashion and many may deem it unworthy for the runaway, but its still fashion. And don’t be fooled, they’re quite clever over at Joe Fresh.Their pieces are sold in a superstore, but they got the market on lock.

So what’s the conclusion? Fashion Week is not fledgling it’s on life support, and all before it’s even had a chance to grow into something worth slamming. It’s a sad collection of desperation, perforated with a handful of talented designers who get lost in a muddled middle-of-the-road message.

Harsh, but someone had to say it.

On a final note, here’s some gorgeous backstage portraits by Krist Papas

If you’re taking a stroll down Queen Street, chances are you’ll spot the store Peach Berserk.  At 507 Queen Street West, the store is located in the heart of the Fashion District.  Run by the divine Kingi Carpenter, Peach Berserk operates as headquarters for young Warholians and eccentric Fashionistas alike.  I recently got the delightful chance to interview Kingi about Canadian Designers, Music, and of course, Toronto Fashion Week.

How did you come up with the name Peach Berserk?

It’s from a nail polish color that’s in a book that’s my Bible, Sex and The Single girl.

Do you have a main Inspiration behind any of the patterns or clothing that you create?

You know, there’s not one inspiration for anything.  It’s more just what I feel like drawing or collaging at the time.  Just influences from everywhere, like Art Galleries, which I love, Travel, which I love, Fashion, Art, Pop Culture, Girliness, sense of humour.  When I draw a print it’s just because it pops into my mind to do it.  you never know what the root is, necessarily.

Are you going to have any involvement in our Fashion Week?

Well, not alot, because we tend to sort of go by our own path.  We’re doing a dress for the Dare To Wear Love Fashion Show finale, because it’s a fundraiser.  So, we’re working on a hopefully fabulous outfit with original prints that we did for it.  It’s going to be amazing.  We made a print of old women’s faces.  Sort of like Grandmothers. I think that in textiles you always see prints of young women.  Why not old women?  So I think what we’re doing is pretty cool.  (Note: The lovely Kingi then proceeds to offer me a ticket if she has any spares.  This is why I love her.)

Do you think that Toronto will gain as much popularity and reputation as a Mecca like, New York or Paris Fashion Week?

No, I don’t think so.  I just don’t think that it’s run properly.  It seems so corny, our Fashion Week, to me.  It always has to have a sponsor, like you don’t hear Paris Fashion Week with a company name in front of it.  Like “LG Fashion Week?” I went to one Fashion Show last year, I actually didn’t even stay because I was annoyed.  But there were Washing Machines everywhere in the room.  What’s that? Washing Machines?  We (referring to her and her daughter, Digby) went to Greta Constantine’s show, but it wasn’t part of Fashion Week , and it had an Audi Sponsor.  But I thought that it was a good show, so i’m not going to complain about that one.  Digby was getting in all the cars.

So, you think that Greta Constantine was smart to pull out of Fashion Week and show their collection a few days early?

Oh god, I thought that was so cool!  Fashion should be about being different and doing things your own way, and not following the corporate agenda and rules of Fashion Week.  I thought they were brilliant.  And to do it a few days before, they got all the publicity themselves.  The way they were able to pull it off, and get their own sponsors.  Really, it was amazing, and put on so well and so opulent.  Everyone was there, and there was such a crowd that I was impressed out of my mind.  Smart, smart guys.

Do you think that Canada is still, as some would say, “lagging behind” or has “caught up” with the American Music scene?

Well, I don’t think there is such a thing as lagging behind or catching up.  I’ve always been a music person and was really into the whole Punk Rock scene back in the 80s.  I just think that Canada has its own thing, and the States has its thing, so I wouldn’t even think of those as being terms.  Like, we had a great Punk Rock scene.  Americans of course, had theirs, but ours was amazing in its own right.  I really think that we have our own look.  And we have a much more English influence than the Americans do in their music.  English as in Punk Rock, or The Pogues for that kind of Celtic thing.  The Americans have a more isolated world.  They don’t think anything exists outside the States.  Canadians have their own thing; we’re not catching up with anybody.

Do you wear any Canadian Designers?

Oh man.  I’ve never thought of that. Maybe John Fluevog? I Can’t thing of anything else!

Do you have any advice for young and aspiring print makers or designers that plan to start a business?

If you want to start a business, you have to have something unique to what you’re doing, which is so hard today.  You’ve got to have your own edge on the market, which Peach Berserk does.  Be prepared to work really  hard and make no money, basically.  But that’s all going to change!  I know this is really corny advice, but have fun with what you do, because life goes by so fast.  Any job you do, whether it’s Fashion, or any field, if you’re not enjoying your day, what’s the point?  Because you wake up one day and you’re 47.  And do it your own way, because the worst thing you can do is follow the path of someone else.  I think true successes make their life by forging their own path and being different than everyone else.  Don’t think, ‘Oh that’s how that person did it so that’s the route to success.’ Use your own intuition to follow your own thing.

Its hard to believe that Dandi Maestre once described herself as a minimalist. Much like a dandelion, this Colombian born jewelry designer is as spunky and bold as they come with a side of the good old je ne sais quoi. This designer is best known for her show stopping pieces which are composed of natural materials such as deer antlers (don’t worry folks, the antler is shed after each mating season), raw hide and bone – to name a few. Her pieces take a new spin on jewelry design and she succeeds in pushing the limits and thinking outside of that Easter egg blue jewelry box.

I was lucky enough to spend the morning lounging in Dandi’s incredible Annex studio which I could best describe as a pack rat’s wet dream. Chunks of amber, bone and horn are piled high on tables and hutches while antlers and hide hang lifelessly from the walls. Bangles and boggles and bone, oh my! During the interview staying focused was a feat in itself as I found myself picking up odds and ends, stacking stone encrusted rings on each of my fingers and adorning my arms in coconut hollowed and woven bangles.

Six years ago Dandi and her family relocated from their native hometown Baranquilla, Colombia to Toronto. Although she had been working in graphic design and advertising for over fifteen years, the thought of starting all over again in a new city seemed too daunting. Although she was unsure what direction she wanted to head in, Dandi knew she wanted to use her experience in design and photography to create something of her own. She came to the conclusion that she would start experimenting with jewelry design. After creating some sample pieces, she applied and was accepted into the One of a Kind Show. Thanks to the show which Dandi describes as a “whirlwind”, she garnered tons of exposure and caught the eye of a particular mover and shaker at the upscale Holt Renfrew. A week later the Dandi Maestre line was snatched up by Holts and she has been selling with the department store ever since. In the interview Dandi says, “It was crazy. I never expected anything like that! It just kind of fell into place”.

Once she started selling at Holts and through US showrooms, Dandi was eager to dive into a new challenge. She was interested in collaborating with designers and had read about the design duo Greta Constantine. She sent an email with some photos of her pieces to the designers and asked if they would be interested in collaborating on a project together. Not more than a few hours later, Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong were standing in the flesh in her studio discussing what samples they wanted to use for their Toronto Fashion Week F/W08 collection. For the next two seasons, Dandi worked with Greta Constantine and last season she was asked by Lucian Matis to help him with his FW10 show. She is currently working on her SS11 collection.

While some people’s egos would blow up after success like this, Dandi remains her humble and sweet self. She mentioned to me many times that none of this was ever planned and its turned out for the better that way. She describes her experiences in jewelry design as a “journey of discovery”. The fact that she doesn’t follow trends and started this business not for money but for personal satisfaction shows that her business really is a labour of love. After meeting many jaded people working in the industry, I can’t tell you how refreshing it is to get to know someone as talented and lovely as Dandi Maestre. And although her jewelry might dip too deep into your budget, I I highly recommend taking a stroll into the Bloor Holt Renfrew and checking out her awe inspiring collection. I guarantee her collection will transport you into a  fashion relm where urban meets jungle!

After a week of Fashion-focused blogging, here’s a round up of everything the Pink Mafia did and all the judgement that comes with it.

MONDAY MAR.16.2009

Let’s start at the beginning: the Holt’s party.

What’s new?: they moved it to the cheap floor, which let’s face it, is the only floor anyone really shops on. Peroni and Evian were flowing (Peroni sponsor everything lately if you’re wondering). The top Seven Designers to watch was trimmed down to 5, and Robin Kay made a flat and extremely sober speech that left us yawning for more.

Photo: Arkan

What did we love?: The glass Evian bottles with straws, it’s like French-kissing your water and we are all about that. Denis Gagnon’s face. We want to fuck him ten ways to Sunday seriously. It’s the Elvis Costello crush, we get all teenage girl for geeky glasses and high tops mixed with a heaping dose of Daddy complex. Sarah Nicole Prickett becoming the voice of a new generation of fashionistas. Just wish there was more than one, but it’s a start.

What sucked the big one? That terrible LG branding on everything. It’s unfashionable, unappealing and uninteresting. Plus, we think it’s gauche to call Fashion Week anything but that. And the theme? Love? Are you kidding me? Robin Kay lead us right to where the meat was when she said “and that means unconditional love”, in her speech. “Unconditional-Love” is code for, “we’re totally desperate for your money in these tough times”. They should have just come out with it and called it: Give Us Your Money So We Can Continue To Reward Mediocrity Week. Plus, we think Robin Kay should get back on the bottle. She shouldn’t feel ashamed about last year, even though the media will never mention her name again without commenting on her liquor consumption (Pink Mafia included), it was probably the single event that announced Toronto Fashion Week to the rest of the world. We think she should become the bitchy over the top, alcoholic eccentric we all want her to be. And then she can tell us all to fuck off. Now THAT, we would pay for every year!

Not for nothing, but the Fashion itself was pretty flat. the models were identical with their slicked back ponytails that said less ‘recessionista’ and more, ‘lazy-pants’ to us.

We actually like Greta Constantine, Philip Sparks, Mikhael Kale, Denis Gagnon, and Jeremy Laing, we just think they can do better. One of us even has a toggle-jacket almost identical to one by Philip Sparks that she bought at Lavish & Squalor 2 years ago, and it’s by WESC.

Final Verdict: For a corporate party, it was better than usual. At least the media was there, which means there’s still something worth noting.

On to the shows…

TUESDAY.MAR.17.2009

TRAVIS TADDEO

What’s new?: Travis Taddeo just made Surface Magazine’s 10 Designers To Watch but he’s been one of our fav’s for a long time. The show was simple, and as with his past collections, there was lux leather detailing on jeans and party dresses as well as high end casual wear for men.

Photo: George Pimentel for the FDCC

What did we love? Those fur throws on both woman and men, a fantastic pair of cotton leggings with leather thigh-high bottoms, and all the styling, by our main man, Cary Tauben. The shoes and sunglasses filled out the harsh urban-warrior look that Taddeo nails every time.

What sucked the big one? Honey, this is Travis Taddeo, nothing sucked at all. The only thing we woulda lost is some of the colour. the pieces that really showcase his talent are monochromatic: black, white or grey.

BETSEY JOHNSON @ The Brant House

What’s new? Nothing. At. All. Although this was the most buzzed about party all week, and we know, we did a giant guest list for it that was like a tsunami of girls clamoring to get in, it was Spring 2009, which means it’s the current collection in stores. Still, that didn’t stop anyone from dying to go.

What did we love? Unlike last season when they had this same party at the Brant House (also rammed to the tits), this time around Princess Superstar DJ’d, and we love her. Also, the bouncers were pretty decent people and were courteous under pressure. And, there were a lot of hot girls dressed to the nines, which is always good times by us.

What sucked the big one? A disappearing guest list that left a lot of people turned away. The show was also late by an hour and you couldn’t get a good sight line to save your life.

WEDNESDAY.MAR.18.2009

PINK TARTAN

What’s new? Gone are the Mad Men inspired girlie dresses and in their place Kimberly Newport-Mimran has sprouted some tough-as-nails power women. Our boy Barletta did the Grace Jones mix for the show, and down walked a lot of fur, tight pants, power-suits and those sex-on-wheels fuchsia and black lace nylons.

If you haven’t read blogger, Brit Skelly’s interview with Kimberly last week, you should probably click here now.

Photos: Cameron McLellan

What did we love? Duh, the music was dope. We also watched from the sound booth with Barletta and our buddy Jay for Bedouin Soundclash. We also noticed that Kimberly had some of the better models of the week, we’re not sure if she just has better taste, has been at it longer, or maybe she has a healthier budget to work with. Either way, girls could walk.

What sucked the big one? It was really packed. Like we almost got trampled packed. Not that that’s a shit thing. Every designer would love to have a packed house, it just got a bit crushing at times.

CHOP SHOP OPENING PARTY

What’s New? The boys behind SdnR clothing, Underground Republik promo company and Brennen Demelo Salon have moved up in the world. Yessir, they had the opening party, a sort of soft launch, during Fashion Week and invited friends by for a beverage (Peroni, told ya they were sponsoring everything) and a looksy.

What did we love? The new store front will bring a lot more walk-in traffic, and it’s an airy, gorgeous space, at least five times bigger than their last.

What sucked the big one? Anna Von showed up in a House Of Lords shirt. Everyone joked that she did it on purpose, but she’s sworn up and down that it was a matter of picking something clean to wear in the morning, and not a statement against the new salon.

THURSDAY.MAR.19.2009

We skipped the shows and went right to the party. Boyz Noize at This Is London was a welcome dance floor break to all the shmoozing with Peroni and background music.

What did we love? Cut Copy, who were in town for their show the next night at CiRCA came along for the ride. Boys Noize threw down some hard-ass house and techno to the fist-pumping crowd’s delight. Best set we’ve heard in a dog’s age.

What sucked the big one? We didn’t get there till one because of prior social engagements, like the Golden Girls EP Release party at The Drake Underground, and we regret we only got a couple hours to be dance dance danin’ machines!

FRIDAY.MAR.20.2009

EVAN BIDDELL

What’s new? Evan Biddell is the one to watch ever since he won Project Runway last year. He’s known for dresses, but this season, he showed edge. The whole collection was centred around a traditional biker jacket and then weaved from there. We’re not gonna lie, the dresses were still the best, but man did he ever take that jacket all the way, turning it into everything from zipper-laden pants to jackets and even sack like dresses accented by tons of zippers.

Photos By: Perry Ge for BlogTO

What did we love? Stacey McKenzie hello! She was the centre piece at the heart of Evan’s show. We also liked the black on black pieces and although none of us are tall enough to pull off the deconstructed pants that strutted the runway, they’re still pretty damn hot.

What sucked the big one? Nothing we can remember. As usual, we prefer the black-on-black looks to any colour, but we’d say that about anything.

EVAN BIDDELL ENCORE SHOW AT ULTRA

With an encore showing on the Castor designed table at newly redesigned Ultra, the crowd went off for Evan Biddell’s show. Mansion DJ’d and all was right in the world.

All in all, Fashion Week this season seemed to take it up a notch. The country’s talent were all there, which was a breath of fresh air in comparison to a country divided with progressively worse shows as the cities unwind outwards from the Big Smoke. The parties were better attended, but as usual, the ones that had nothing to do with Fashion Week, kicked ass, and the ones that did, were a total snore. We feel very close to a breakthrough soon. Out with the old, in with the cool!

When I was told I would be interviewing Kimberly Newport-Mimran, the co-founder, President and Head designer of the celebrated label Pink Tartan, I was hit with an overpowering sense of excitement with a healthy dose of the jitters. After interning in the fashion department at FASHION Magazine, I quickly learned that words such as elegant, sophisticated and polished were synonymous with this sensational homegrown line. Unbeknownst to many, she is also the designer behind the chic 60s inspired Porter airline uniforms, pillbox hat and all! Her recognition south of the border has led her to projects designing the garb outfitting those working at Hollywood’s coveted Tropicana Bar and the swanky rooftop watering hole 60 Thompson. Her timeless and ultra feminine label is a favourite for A-list celebrities such as Kate Hudson, Kim Cattrall and Maggie Gyllenhaal. In the fashion world, Kimberly is revered as a goddess of style and grace, hence my interview angst.

The photographer Arkan and I arrived at the Pink Tartan headquarters with a few minutes to spare. The warehouse turned open concept studio with its black painted ceilings, whitewashed walls and warm hardwood floors is as effortlessly chic as Kim’s designs. We were ushered into the Pink Tartan showroom where I got a chance to peek at the prim and proper SS09 collection. Seconds later, the effervescent Kim sashayed into the room dressed to the nines with a wide grin on her face. Her warm and welcoming nature quickly eased my nerves. We sat across from each other at a large black lacquered Victorian style dinner table. Immediately Kim complimented my glasses and asked if she could try them on. Try them on? Hell I would have given them to her if she asked! After deciding the frames weren’t for her, we settled down and got down to the nitty gritty.

B: When did you get big break in the fashion industry? How did you get your start?

K: I always wanted to go into the fashion industry and I was fortunate because I went into it knowing what I wanted to do. I went to George Brown where I studied fashion merchandising and management. I finished school on a Friday and started working in the buying office for the Hudsons Bay Company on the Monday. I went through the buying, assortment planning, merchandising areas and worked my way up. I then moved over to a design driven company called Club Monaco. I was much more involved in product development so I did the whole product end of things and that is where my passion is. I worked with a design team. I would execute and source fabrics and makers, put it together, merchandise it and buy it. I then had the opportunity to put a line together for the Caban stores. In doing that I got to direct the product myself so I got to do the design and the development of it. I loved it. There’s something to be said about being able to execute an idea. An idea, no matter how brilliant it is, if you can’t execute it properly then it sort of falls short. I had the background to do both and I understand the cycle of retailing from the first part of my career. That sort of pulled it all together.

B: When Pink Tartan opened in 2002 how large was your team compared to the size it is now?

K: I started with myself and one pattern maker. My team is about up to twenty now. I have two offices that we manage. Our headquarters is in New York and the design studio is here in Toronto.

B: When you started Pink Tartan did you feel there was a lack of Canadian designers?

K: I always think of myself as an international designer. It’s a collection that appeals to a lot of different women that have a specific sense of style. For me, I was always very passionate about product and designing and developing product. I do think that there is a need for really good product that fits into your lifestyle. You can travel with it and its beautiful quality and the integrity of the garment is there. That’s very important to me.

B: Would you mind running me through your average day on the job?

K: My goodness. Well today, I’ve already seen about twenty-five fabric collections. We’re co-coordinating for the fashion show. I was out of the office all week doing a huge store tour. We just launched with Neiman Marcus so I was in Houston, then I went to the Bloomingdale’s Boston store and then I was in New York. I am working as a lead sponsor for a charity called New Yorkers for Children. So I did fittings on underprivileged children that will be part of the event that we are sponsoring. Then I came home. This is my first day in the office after a few days so we are going through our guest list. We have media interviews today. The team is going to give me an update on where we are with our production bookings because we have to book all of our fall production that we are showing on the runways. I have to sit down with my controller and review our monthly financials and then I’ll sit with my Vice President of Sales just to see where we are with our numbers. Did I take a breath?

B: Last season your collection has been described as retro and ultra-feminine geared towards the modern day vixen. Are we going to be seeing that tonight?

K: No, it’s going to be completely different. This is where we get to do a little bit of theatre. Before [SS09 collection] I was very inspired by the whole Mad Men thing – hairdos, longer nails, pretty and polished. This collection is much different; it’s a much edgier collection. This collection is very androgynous. There are a couple big influences in this collection. As we know ‘love’ is the theme for Toronto Fashion Week. For me, I think love is a drug. I’ve got Grace Jones on the runway; I was very inspired by her look in the 80s. I’m feeling a little bit more built-up shoulders, but not as severe as in the 80s. I do clothes that are wearable, I’ll push it but I don’t like to push it over the limit. I push it so it’s really new but still very wearable.

B: Sounds like it’s going to be a little bit more structural?

K: Yes, the clothing is going to be more structured. It’s a little less pretty and a little more powerful.

B: Who would you say your clientele is?

K: It’s really a girl with a specific sense of style that likes Pink Tartan. I tend to like classic and couture. I like to take elements from both and mix them up and give women clothes that are day-to-dinner. They’re not casual.

B: I assume that some of your customers haven’t been hit by the recession. We’ve been noticing that there is a trend starting with people and their shame to flaunt excess. Did you factor this shame of excess idea in your upcoming collection?

K: Not really. I think that with Pink Tartan we are a sensible collection. It’s not about excess; it’s about luxury at an opening price point. They’re clothes that are necessary; it’s a great alternative to splurging.

B: Who would be the ultimate woman to dress?

K: I always like the classic, iconic women of substance. I tend to do a lot of referencing back. I love the way Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O dressed. These women really had a sense of style and would wear the clothes, not have the clothes wear them. But modern day, I always tend to like the more sophisticated movie stars. I think Uma Thurman has great style. I relate to women that take style seriously, so those would be the type of women I like to dress.

B: What is the reason for moving your show to be back to back with Joe Fresh’s show?

K: I am travelling the whole week. I am doing personal appearances all over the U.S. I didn’t want to miss Joe’s show. It’s kind of nice because a lot of our friends come and it’s back to back. It makes it a more fun evening.

B: Why do you personally choose to stay in Toronto instead of relocating to a larger fashion mecca?

K: Well, I’m back and forth to New York. With Porter airlines I can go almost once a week. I have an apartment in New York as well. I find Toronto is home and I love it here. But I really have the luxury of living between both cities.

B: Name one of your favourite and one of your least favourite parts of the job.

K: My favourite part is product. I find some of the admin parts and financial responsibilities to be tedious.

B: Last but not least, what does success mean to you?

K: I think success is really a state of mind. If you’re ambitious, you’re always pushing so I think it’s always a bar that you want to reach. I think true success is to be truly happy. I am always pushing because things could be better, stronger and faster but I do it in a positive way. I am a believer that you can’t take things for granted. You can measure success on a dollar figure but does that really make you successful? It’s about creating a balance which is hard to do. I work a lot so people naturally think, “Ooh you have such a great job”. I mean I work non-stop but thank god I love what I do. I’m happy and that’s what counts at the end of the day.

Since I was interviewing them the day of their show, finding time to meet with the masterminds behind the sought-after label Greta Constantine proved to be quite a tricky feat. At first I was to meet with them at The Courthouse where the show was to be held, t-minus three hours before the models took to the runway. But then last minute I was directed to a tiny two-story salon on Scollard. Thank god for staying on my toes.

I walked into a salon with no sign and was immediately hit with an overwhelming waft of strong hold hairspray, designer perfume and pizza (clearly the Pizza Pizza delivery boy had recently been summoned due to the pizza boxes stacked high on the receptionist desk). I immediately thought to myself, “So models DO eat”. Right! I looked around and concluded that I was definitely in the right place. The joint was crawling with leggy done-up waifs with Blackberry’s in hand looking less than impressed, PR reps ready to swoop in at any sign of trouble and beyond frazzled stylists, makeup artists and assistants trying get through every model. I head upstairs to find Kirk Pickersgill relaxing under a hairdryer surrounded by his posse. He wears a slight smirk on his face and is taking in the whole scene. Pretty calm for a guy whose about to show his collection in three hours. I introduce myself and he apologizes that his partner Stephen won’t be able to make it (at this moment he is still at the studio sewing). We sit side by side and briefly discuss the upcoming show, the duo’s goal to break into the New York fashion scene and how women are inspirational to them as designers.

B: Tell me about the meaning behind the name.

K: ‘Greta’ is derived from my business partner Stephen Wong’s mother’s name and ‘Constantine’ is my grandfather’s name on my mother’s side.

B: How do your roles differ in Greta Constantine?

K: Stephen is more technical. He does the drafting of the patterns and the draping. His hand is more into the technical part of it. But from the design part of it, we both work hand in hand one hundred percent.

B: I know you were recently in New York. What was it like being there for Fashion Week?

K: To be honest it was exactly like being in Toronto, it was just a different city. We were afraid to do something in New York because we always thought of it as the mecca of fashion. When we got there we realized it’s almost easier than doing it in Toronto.

B: What was the reason for going?

K: Recognition basically. We wanted to get the name out there, market ourselves on an international level.

B: Why did you two decide to set yourselves aside from Toronto Fashion Week and put on your own show?

K: Honestly, or what we tell people?

B: Honestly.

K: We just feel that if you design a collection for six months, I think it’s only right that it should take on a full attitude, the full aspect of it. I don’t see showing under a tent after another person and before another person would be able to express the way the collection should be expressed. We also don’t agree with a lot of the politics involved in the Toronto Fashion Week.

B: Do you hope to break into New York?

K: Absolutely.

B: Did you two go to the same school?

K: We didn’t go to school.

B: So you are self-taught. Do you think that’s helped or hindered you two in anyway?

K: I think it’s helped us because now we deal with a lot of students and we notice a difference between what we learned working in the industry as opposed to going to school. I am not saying, “Don’t go to school” but I think you learn a lot more hands-on.

B: Did you work for a designer before Greta Constantine?

K: I worked with Dsquared and Neil Barrett.

B: What can we expect to see in the collection tonight?

K: Expect to see three different types of women. We got frustrated to the point that with every collection and show the women started looking the same. All the girls have their own personality and look. We decided to separate them in three so you are going to see three types of makeup, hair, personalities and styles. It’s as if you will see three shows in one.

B: What is the inspiration behind the collection?

K: It’s called Women so it focuses on different types of women. It’s kind of like Sex and the City and how each woman is beautifully different.

B: Are you focusing on particular fabrics or colours?

K: We are introducing new fabrics. We used to mainly work in jersey, now we are experimenting with goldens, leathers and fur.

B: When it comes to designing are you two always on the same page?

K: Absolutely. We finish each other’s sentences. It’s strange because we think the same.

B: What is key to your partnership?

K: Non-communication. Just kidding. Stephen and I work separately, I work in the daytime and he works in the evening. We call ourselves Ladyhawk. The key to a good working relationship is communication and respect.

B: What are the future aspirations for Greta Constantine?

K: Like most houses, we become bigger internationally. Develop lines of accessories, perfume, children’s wear and house wares. The most important part will be staying true to ourselves and our brand.

B: What is Greta Constantine’s style motto?

K: Our motto is to follow our instinct.

A few hours later I am at The Courthouse along with hundreds of others without seats to the Greta Constantine show. Rather than being clear, my runway vantage point was more like looking through a smudged peephole. What I did see -flashy gold metallic trench coats, chic fur shrugs and structured leather bombers – was a fresh twist on the usual jersey draped designs the designers are famous for. The impeccably tailored and ultra-feminine looks really captured the idea that the duo painstakingly pays attention to the female form. In a blink of an eye, the show wrapped up and the awestruck crowd was shuffled out into the chilly street. I was left with little doubt that this designer duo will continue to impress international fashion critics and make it big in the upcoming seasons!

Written By: Kim Cuachon

Native princess meets harlequin romance, envelopped with the attitude needed for the now. That was the tone of MMH. Melinda-Mae Harlingten has certainly surpassed, pretty in pink de rigueur for Spring ’09.

“prêt-a-porter design” photo: L’Oreal Fashion Week

Tailored shorts and jackets, with muted earth tones, echoed a strong feminine aura on the stage as if warriors were being sent out first, just as in tribal tradition. Side braids with head bands, finished with a simple large feather provided that little extra head nod.

A montage of fluid, free flowing dresses provided the contrast, like one Pocahontas after another, showcasing ripple dresses to full length jersey dresses. It trailed with a little bit of stardust, although juxtaposed with the feathered hair accessories; earthy necklaces and bangles. The dresses, because of their movement, provided the romance, naturally synonymous with native princesses – strong and mysterious, flirty and still honourable.

MMH has provided women, something to Spring forward on. Just as in her uncomplicated, non-threatening, anyone can do this, prêt-a-porter designs; she is thus proving the point that women can do it all. Just like our ever changing economy, we can be that warrior, ready to battle whatever is thrown at us. We can get things done and still be trendy, with great versatility, therefore, the option to be that native princess, should we choose.

“we can be that warrior” photo: L’Oreal Fashion Week